Deb has an errand in Kelburn in Wellington so dogs and I came too. I forgot how terrible parking is. We ended up at Beach Babylon in Oriental Bay for a green tea and chocolate cake.

View across cafe tables and chairs to parked cars, with the harbour beyond. Large piece of chocolate cake. Two small dogs tied to cafe chairs.

First contacts

hapū and iwi who encountered Europeans were often willing and able participants in the trade that quickly developed. … Māori women were often used to keep Pākehā in the community.

Pimping, prostitution, perhaps rape, sound so innocent when worded thus. #sexism

Puhoi is just north of Auckland. Bohemians arrived in 1863 and ‘settled’ the ‘waste land’ that in reality belonged to Māori (as did everything in New Zealand before Europeans arrived and grabbed it). That phrase ‘first settlers’ sounds so normal, but Māori were there first.

Puhoi church - a small wooden structure painted white, with a red roof.Plaque about the ‘first settlers’.Building with memorial rock and plaque in front of it. Extensive information board about Bohemian settlers in Puhoi.

The map below may not be 100% accurate, but shows the ~2,300Km Deb and I travelled in the last week. From Waikawa Beach to Putaruru, Whangārei, Cape Reinga (via Pukenui), Whangārei, Coromandel, Drury (Auckland) and back to Waikawa Beach. Loved the trip! Deb skipped the CR bit.

Map showing travel over the last week.

Up in Helena Bay, north of Whangārei, is an amazing art gallery and cafe. While visiting I spotted these gorgeous deejo pocket knives. The problem is I don’t need another pocket knife. Also, the one review I read, gave it only three stars. Still want one though…

Deejo Tattoo 37G Maori Juniper Knife.

In Tirau, near Cambridge, they make the most of corrugated iron. Not the best angle on the first photo unfortunately. It’s a sheep.

Corrugated iron building shaped like a sheep.
Corrugated iron building shaped like a dog.

Cambridge, where we stopped for breakfast, is the horse breeding capital of NZ. The plaques in the footpath makes that clear. Plenty of money in these parts.

A portrait of a horse made of stones in the footpath. A portrait of a horse made of stones in the footpath. Bacon, eggs, tomato and mushrooms.

Today we drove across to the East Coast of the Coromandel Peninsula, with a brief stop at Waiau Falls in amongst native bush. Now we’re in Drury, just south of Auckland to visit more family.

Native bush by Waiau Falls.

Coromandel township is bordered by mangrove swamps. It looks out into the Hauraki Gulf. There are numerous small and large islands in the Gulf, and it’s very popular with boaties. Nearby there seem to be mussel or oyster farms.

Boats by the mangroves.View to the north across sea and islands. View to the west across sea and islands.

Having completed the planned portion of our week away we are now on our way home, via unplanned stops. First up, we’re visiting Coromandel, on the Coromandel Peninsula, where I have never been before. So scenic. Photos may follow.

Map showing the route from Whangārei to Coromandel - a 4.5 hour drive.

Cape Rēinga is at the northernmost tip of mainland New Zealand. According to Māori tradition it’s where the spirits of the dead depart by climbing down the roots of a pohutukawa tree, and into the water to then head back to Hawaiki.

Path to the lighthouse. Information about the spirit journeys.Information about the sacred pohutukawa tree.The sacred pohutukawa tree.

Hmmm, NZ’s first capital:

The first Russell was located at Okiato, 8km from present-day Russell, in May 1840.

Russell was originally called Kororāreka.

Yesterday we lunched under 90 year old Pohutukawa trees at Russell, NZ’s original European capital.

Māori traded energetically with the newcomers providing fish, greens, pork, kumara, flax, water and …women. When ships were in port … grogshops and brothels did a roaring trade.

Ferry mooring at Russell. Beside the harbour at Russell.

We stayed the night at Pukenui, less than an hour’s drive from Cape Reinga. The Far North is very scenic. I’m glad to say my friend has brought her gorgeous dog Ryka, a Belgian Shepherd. Today, the northern tip of the North Island. Excited!

On the east coast, looking north. On the east coast, looking south. Pukenui Lodge Motel. My friend throws the ball for her dog. Ryka, the Belgian Shepherd.

The Helena Bay Art Gallery and cafe has numerous gorgeous works and a fabulous view.

Driftwood lama and other art works. Helena Bay view.

The Puhoi Pub is a shock to the senses. Every square inch of wall space is occupied.

Walls of the pub absolutely covered with pictures, postcards and other paraphernalia. Walls of the pub absolutely covered with pictures, postcards and other paraphernalia. Walls of the pub absolutely covered with pictures, postcards and other paraphernalia.

Still not quite over my cold so a couple of hours in the car leaves me feeling ‘stuffy’. Time for a Chocolate cupcake and green tea at Bombay Hills just by Auckland. Delicious cupcake.

Chocolate cupcake and green tea.

There was a horrible thing yesterday, just north of Taupō. 😭 🐈 A small dark shape bolted across SH1 ahead of us, hit the rear wheel of the car in front and spun off to the shoulder. We stopped, and moved a lovely cat, now dead, off the shoulder to the grass. ⚰︎ Someone’s pet… ?

After an overnight stop with family in Putaruru, today we head for Whangārei, 350 Km, via Warkworth, north of Auckland. Yesterday’s Desert Road stretch was so beautiful, with snow on all 3 mountains: Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe and Tongariro. Great views for a driver heading north.

Map showing the North Island with the route from Putaruru to Whanārei marked.

The hot pool at Tokaanu was a welcome break in our trip. Ahhh.

Tokaanu pools. A private pool.